Famous for 15 minutes

Today was my duty to be "leader of the day" which meant moderating the discussion with local elected officials and the community newspaper editors from Gatchina, a small town about an hour outside of St. Petersburg.
We spoke with the Mayor, who is avid about smart planning, the city council, who explained the budget and the passion for local sports, and the newspaper editors, who illustrated in not so many words that the press plays a different role in Russia.
The slogan for RT tv, the news station covering Russian and other issues targeting a foreign audience is "Question More." Below is from their studio.

I haven't seen so much contemporary art in Russia, though I'm sure it's all around me. Of course, the classical art is ubiquitous, as are statues of Lenin (in front of all government buildings, it seems) but not too much new art. And, what's struck me, is that many of the government and other buildings don't have art on the walls. I can't figure out if it seems anomalous here, or if we do have a lot of art on our walls at home. I mean, outside of my house. 

Okay, I can't get enough of these signs. Go buddy, go!!! The one warning you to not run over children also features two figures completely hauling ass. I don't know why it makes me laugh so much -- because Americans wouldn't dare tell each other to book it? Or because Russian women or always in insanely high heels and should be running anywhere?

Here he is! Lenin. This time outside the St. Petersburg Legislative building. I'm going to suggest we get one of these for in front of our state house. 

Right now we're almost in the period of white nights, and it doesn't get dark until about 11:30, and then gets light again by three. We took a walk at 10 p.m. to prove this point. It was a nice walk. 

Outside of Gatchina was the "summer palace" of Paul, son of Catherine the Great. It turns out "Great" was a euphemism. Maybe for "Formidable" or something like it. She had her husband assassinated and then gave her son a palace well out of St. Petersburg so she wouldn't have to see his face or let him rule. Maybe she was right. When she died, he took over, and then he got killed almost right away. His son took over. Catherine the Great always did like her grandson, apparently. 

After World War II they didn't restore the palace until recently, so there are still major parts that are only half restored. 

St. Pete's of the Burgh.

Today in St. Petersburg we visited local elected officials to discuss the way that government differs. One way these government buildings have differed is that they are former palaces. You can tell by the talon doorknobs and frescos on the ceiling. Below is the building for the delegates of St. Petersburg, which is a former home of one of the princesses of Russia, who never wanted to leave St. Petersburg.

Meeting room for the delegates on committees. 

If you've got to have a doorknob, why not make it an engraved bronze talon clutching a ball.

So, former princesses had fancy chandeliers. Now government buildings do. 

Overnight Train

We took an overnight train from Moscow to St. Petersburg. In the civilized world that demands real public transportation, you can go to bed on a train, sleep comfortably, and wake up when the train attendant knocks on your door to bring you coffee into the place you wanted to be.
Apparently Moscow business people traveling to St. Petersburg do this all the time, because it's cheaper than going during the day and renting a hotel room in St. Petersburg.
It felt very Orient Express, and I did spend a few minutes worrying that my character sketch, leftist bureaucrat with secret past as journalist and pretentions of being a cowgirl made me the most likely to get offed, but in the end every one survived.

Days Two to Four

So after one day of sightseeing, the meetings began. And this, this was very different than the sightseeing. So, for example, instead of staring in awe at beautiful buildings and marveling at Russian history, we met with the head of the electoral commission, the head of the human relations commission, members of the Youth Public Chamber and some other politicians.
My understanding is that we got to meet with people that the Ambassador had had trouble getting a meeting with.
One thing is clear. You think, perhaps, from the media, that the issue of Ukraine might be big in Russia. You would be correct about that.
If by big, you mean all consuming.
I am hesitant to say more than that about any of our meetings in Moscow.
And by "hesitant" I mean a mixture of cautious and anxious that is completely unlike my usual propensity to completely run my mouth off.
Of course, being even a semi-official face of the U.S. during a time of crisis makes you the default recipient of a lot of opinions on U.S. politics. This is true wherever you go as a U.S. citizen, but it feels more intense right now, I think, because official channels are more obstructed.

Moscow is not only filled with politicians, of course, It's also a center of art and business. Or, in the case of Kespersky Labs, both. Mr. Kespersky started his business in 1994, immediately after the collapse of the soviet union, and now has a worldwide anti-virus company, with a gorgeous office space that reminds me of Maya Design, in Pittsburgh.
He also bought a Dali, as in Salvador, which graces the lobby. One message we received loud and clear is that business of the right size can thrive in Moscow.

On Wednesday night I visited the Bolshoi Theater (translation, grand theater) and watched the ballet. I don't love dance, and the ballet, in particular, seems distant from art with which I can engage, but this was something else. I sat in a box, with a beautiful unobstructed view (would love it if Pittsburgh theaters could take a cue from the Bolshoi) and watched some of the most amazing feats of athleticism I've ever seen. The audience shouted Bravos and hollers as if it were a football game.

Day One

This morning, after a breakfast of smoked fish, pickles, and kefir (having this every day could turn me into a breakfast person!), I went out for a walk. First walking along the river, and then turning into small side streets. This gratuitous picture of breakfast is for Dan Warner, who I wish could share it with me. I know how happy it would make him.

Oh wait, before that, at breakfast, a very drunk, very beautiful asked me for the bathroom. She tried first in Russia, and then when I said I didn't speak Russian, in English. It turns out that she'd been drinking since Victory Day, which is why she was in a fabulous and possibly uncomfortable outfit with short skirt and stilettos at 9 a.m. on a Sunday. It was still Saturday night, for her.
When I finally found her the bathroom, she asked if it was my first day. I realized she thought I worked for the hotel. Extremely amusing. A brief conversation where she gushed apologies ensued. Then more kefir.
The part of Moscow we're staying in is an historic district, with older houses, and quite beautiful. And at 9 a.m. a gentleman was cleaning off graffiti from a building. Slowly painting green over letters that seem to read, "computer." Only after seeing that, did I notice that the wall painted to match the surrounding homes (while blocking construction) had a mesh barrier up above graffiti range. Haven't seen any other graffiti in Moscow. Perhaps they've read the broken windows theory?

A few obsessions (and not prices, I promise to stop talking about that, I noticed that I already mentioned it several times. I can get over it!)
The walk signs in Moscow have these incredibly long legs and they are taking these insane strides. They look…purposeful. I don't know why it cracks me up so much, but I really love it. It's not just "go," It's like, "go boldly forth!"

We passed Putins campaign headquarters.

We were also chatting about accessibility for people with disabilities, after noticing these little metal ramps on the sides of steps, my colleague noted that that's their ADA accommodations. I figured they might be for people to walk their bicycles up steps.

So I asked. Both wrong. they are so people can push carts for carrying stuff up and down the steps. A beautiful moment of surfacing our assumptions!

So we visited the Kremlin, saw the equivalent of the crown jewels, visited the Red Square, and then hung out with this statue of Karl Marx. That's him, the big guy. All of that is too much to process, though now I've seen one of the seven wonders of the world. So there's that.

At the end of the day, I finally found my graffiti, as part of a wall set up for people to write their feelings about victory day.

And then, at dinner, found out that one of our main guides in this process doesn't have health insurance.  No public system of healthcare, except for free emergency room care. He asked why were so obsessed with healthcare in our country. Good question. Looking forward to what comes next on day….two!

Arrived, with sports towels

After a 16 hour travel day, I'm now in a Russian hotel room. It has great wi-fi  and is around the corner from the Kremlin, which is outstanding, in case you were like, "I wonder if the Kremlin is mind-blowingly beautiful?" Yup yup, it is. Also a dinner of a glass of wine, grilled vegetables and soup cost $50, and that's with the ruble plummeting against the dollar.
But all of that is just for color, to give a sense of what Moscow is like, as a city.
We met the person who set up the trip, and I feel that in that half-hour conversation I understand so much more about what's going on. It hasn't jelled yet, but it's clear that none of us were wrong to wonder about the idea of a delegation of Americans coming over to engage in citizen diplomacy is a strange idea, particularly when it's in large part funded by business interests in Russia.
And especially when those particular business interests are getting hit by the sanctions.
Curiouser and curiouser, indeed.
I feel if nothing else, part of my job for this trip is to make it clear the very real impact that sanctions are having on U.S. Business interests in Russia.
I will do that, once my head is more clear.

Also, I keep talking about sports towels, because I needed to bring over gifts, and people kindly helped me out and that's what I have. Terrible Towels! Penguins Playoffs Towels! And also some awesome cowboy poetry posters from my Pa. These are some lucky ducky Russians, that's for sure.

Can this blog survive?

So, at the state department today, we were cautioned about taking computers and other devices on our trip. But, because it's unclear exactly what bad could happen, I'm throwing caution to the wind. I'm hoping the embarrassing photos I take of my children won't cause an international incident, if my computer is hacked. Perhaps, in fact, their total cuteness will win over hearts and minds and thaw U.S. Russian relations. If anything can, it's an Amon-Leo bath picture.
Anyway, unclear whether it's a good idea to sign on to wi-fi there and write rambling blog posts.
If not, you'll need to come over for vodka and stories and get it in person!

Intercultural understanding

Along on this trip is a gentleman lobbyist for an alcohol company. In addition to being a genuinely good guy, he also is in the 1k club. I don't know what that means conceptually, but pragmatically it means I'm sitting in the United Club. Which is way way more civilized than being camped out on the airport floor.

Today we met with the state department, and some professors of Russian. And learned that the name for what we're doing is citizen diplomacy or "third-tier" diplomacy. This made me slightly more anxious - it's like my normal anxiety "I want 'em to like me" on steroids "they GOTTA like me."

And, in other news, it turns out that my friends are the only ones who asked about Pussy Riot. Which says something about my friends. I love you people.

Introduction

Tonight I met most of the folks I'll be traveling with. I must say, political people are, to a type, almost alarmingly charming. We've got a delegation of four guys (two Rs, one I, one D) and three women (two Ds, one R). Over beer it became clear that 1. The Tea Party is an issue of concern. 2. Government surveillance is an issue of concern and 3. When I say, Social Issues, Republicans say "Pocket Book Issues."
None of this is firmed up clearly as of yet, except that beer in Washington D.C. fancy hotels is ridiculously expensive.
Tomorrow, the state department. Now that's some people whose opinions about Russia I'm looking forward to hearing.
I also found out why I got selected for this trip, apparently, I seem up for anything, and willing to learn whatever.
None of that is untrue, so I don't feel like there's been false advertising.
Also, Moscow is super expensive, even for laundry, so it looks like it will be about washing our underwear in the sink.
Reminds me of traveling in Brazil with my sis!

Prologue

Tomorrow I leave on a political fellowship to Russia with the American Council of Young Political Leaders. Almost all of the previous sentence is still mostly a surprise to me, except, of course, the word "political."
A colleague from Progressive States Network (shameless plug, they're a great organization working to support progressive legislators in the states) nominated me, and of course, I jumped at the chance to apply, knowing that the clock was ticking before I turned forty and was ineligible.
So when I got a call for the first trip, I said Yes before I discussed it with my boss, or my husband. Russia has never been on my bucket list, with my primary interest in them being their support of Cuba and some of the leftist Latin American regimes. Even better, of course, because I never would have made it there, and now if I become obsessed, I may even head back.
Sounds like there's good reason to become obsessed.
My initial impulse was to try and learn Russian in six weeks -- while maintaining a full-time job and caring for my family. It was, apparently, going to happen on my lunch hour, while I listened to podcasts.
It did not happen on my lunch hour, via podcast.
Then I hoped to read big meaningful books, but never really got to the library on time.
So instead, I quizzed the surprising number of Russian scholars I have in my social network.
A few things that I'll be thinking about while there:
1. My friend's quotation, "People talk about the Russian government a little bit like teenagers talk about their parents when they visit a therapist for the first time. They compare it to an idealized version of the parents they wish they have." Almost everyone I've spoken with implies a very different relationship between the citizens and the state than we see here in the states. Teasing that out intrigues me.
2. The idea that volunteerism is perceived as a threat to the state, because volunteering points out a failure of the state to care for the people. This could not be more counter to the U.S., where any government intervention is perceived as a failure of the people to organize and care for themselves.
3. Federalist/centralized control of this sprawling country via strategic use of election law -- proportional representation and a powerful party infrastructure. That's a big issue, but the part that captures my attention is the question of how local leaders interact with this larger system. How do they build their base and gain leadership roles? How do they maintain them, and what are their spheres of influence? And of course, how do the new "unfunded mandates" affect them, given what is essentially a one-party system.
4. And of course, homophobia. Apparently, homophobia and limitations on the civil rights of gays and lesbians is justified defensively -- in that gay rights are part of the Western Cultural Oppression. (Capitals mine.) Homophobia is simply a cultural/ethnic attitude, and civil rights for the LGBT community is seen as in conflict with local/ethnic rights to their own ethnic cultural identity. Maps pretty cleanly onto the religious right's (non-capitals mine) arguments about homophobia, and limiting the civil rights of gays and lesbians.

I was hoping to right a sort of Gogol-absurdesque piece about all of these fairly low-level, local political types (not the deciders, at least for now) visiting Russia and meeting with The Office of Vladimir Putin (Capitals not mine), at a time of complete international crisis, when real conversations between real deciders should be happening. It would have made for beautiful absurdist art - but it is not to be. The meeting with his office was cancelled. And, before anyone wonders, the meeting with Pussy Riot never even made it on the agenda.